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RTL-SDRApp featureRTL-SDR: getting started3 min read

Shortwave on an RTL-SDR: the V4 upconverter, direct sampling and converters

How to hear HF (below 24 MHz) on an RTL-SDR stick in the app: the Blog V4’s built-in upconverter, direct sampling on other sticks, external converters, and the antennas that make it work.

The tuner chip in an RTL-SDR stick starts at about 24 MHz. Everything below, which is most of shortwave plus mediumwave and longwave, needs a different path into the RTL2832U. The app offers three, under Source → HF (0–28.8 MHz).

RTL-SDR Blog V4: the upconverter

The Blog V4 has an upconverter built in. With HF on Auto · V4 upconverter, tune below 28.8 MHz and the app switches it in for you; tune above and it switches it out. There is nothing else to set, and you keep the normal gain controls. The device info lists HF via the upconverter from 0.5 to 28.8 MHz. The V4 offers no direct sampling, so Auto, External converter and Off are its only choices.

Other sticks: direct sampling

Most other sticks, the RTL-SDR Blog V3 among them, can feed the antenna straight into the RTL2832U and skip the tuner. On those sticks Auto uses the Q branch below 24 MHz, which is the one the V3 and most modified sticks wire up. Direct sampling I and Direct sampling Q let you pick a branch by hand if your stick is wired the other way.

Direct sampling works, but it is a compromise. There is no tuner in front, so no tuner gain and no front-end filtering: strong stations from elsewhere in the HF range can show up as ghosts, and the noise floor is higher than on an upconverter. Under Source, RTL digital AGC is worth trying here (leave it off for everything else). A modest antenna often sounds better than a huge one, because there is less to overload.

An external converter

An upconverter box such as the Ham It Up shifts HF up into the tuner’s range. Choose External converter and enter its offset in Converter offset (the app’s hint uses −125 MHz for a Ham It Up), and the frequencies you see and type are the real HF ones. The offset applies to the whole receiver, so switch it back to Off when you remove the converter.

Antennas for HF

The small dipole from a stick kit is far too short for shortwave. What works, roughly in order of cost:

  • A random wire of 5 to 20 m outdoors, fed through a 9:1 unun, with a ground or counterpoise on the other side. Cheap, strong, and noisy if it runs past the house wiring.
  • A passive loop such as the YouLoop: quiet and directional, so you can turn it to null local noise. Its output is low, which suits the V4’s upconverter better than direct sampling.
  • An active loop or active whip: powered by a bias-tee, good in small spaces. The stick’s own bias-T gives 4.5 V; check that your antenna takes that voltage before you rely on it.

Most HF antennas end in a connector other than SMA, so you will need an adapter to SMA male; see the adapters guide. Noise matters more than signal on HF: get the antenna, and the stick on a USB extension, away from chargers, monitors and the computer itself.

Once you hear shortwave, the EiBi schedule in the Stations tab tells you who is on air, and decoders such as FT8, WSPR, CW, RTTY, NAVTEX and weather fax read many HF signals for you (see decoders).

Recommended gear

  • 9:1 unun + longwire kitAntennaA longwire through a 9:1 unun is the cheapest antenna that really works on HF with a stick.
  • MLA-30+ active loop antennaAntennaAn active loop is the quiet choice for HF on a balcony, where a longwire picks up the household noise.

Frequently asked questions

Which is better for shortwave, a V3 or a V4?
The V4. Its built-in upconverter keeps the tuner and its gain control in the path, while the V3 reaches HF by direct sampling, which has no front-end filtering and a higher noise floor.
Why do I hear stations on the wrong frequency in direct sampling?
Direct sampling has no filter in front of the converter, so strong signals from another part of the spectrum can fold onto the frequency you are on. A shorter antenna or a filter usually helps, and so can switching RTL digital AGC off.

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Welcome to ATS Mini Controller

This web app connects to your ATS Mini radio over USB or Bluetooth LE and lets you control it directly from a computer or phone. It adds remote tuning, memory slot management, screenshot capture, audio streaming, spectrum scanning, theme editing and other features on top of the device's built-in firmware.

Firmware 2.34+: pick a connection method

Starting with firmware 2.34 the radio accepts remote control over USB or Bluetooth LE. Pick by what matters more for you: fast screenshots (USB) or clean audio from the radio’s 3.5 mm output (Bluetooth) — the two transports trade off in opposite directions.

  • USB Serial

    Settings USB Port change Off to Ad hoc

    Works in any Chromium-based browser. Requires a data-capable USB-C cable (opens in a new tab).

    Best for screenshots and theme work. Transfers complete in a second or two. Audio capture is noisy while the cable is connected — the radio lacks the filtering needed to isolate its 3.5 mm output from the USB power rail, so hum and switching noise bleed into the audio path.

  • Bluetooth LE

    Settings Bluetooth set mode to Ad hoc

    Chrome / Edge / Opera on desktop or Android. BLE is experimental in firmware 2.34.

    Best for clean audio. Bluetooth LE carries the remote control only, never sound: the audio still travels by cable from the radio’s 3.5 mm output to your computer. With no USB cable attached the radio runs on its battery, so that output stays free of the USB power-rail noise that bleeds through on a wired connection. Screenshots are much slower (~30 s) because of the firmware's BLE throughput cap.

More than one firmware

Besides the official firmware, the app carries profiles for the Monster fork and for H. J. Berndt's firmware. It works out which one your radio runs from the replies it gets, so there is nothing to pick. When nothing matches, it says so instead of guessing.

  • Berndt firmware is never assumed. It reuses some of the official firmware's keys and what they do there is not established, so the app asks you before switching to it.
  • Missing controls are deliberate. Whatever a firmware cannot do is left off the page rather than greyed out, and on Berndt firmware, commands go out one at a time, a few seconds apart.
How the app handles other firmwares (opens in a new tab)

Keyboard shortcuts

Single keys control the radio on the Controller page, except while you type in a field.

←→
Tune one step
↑↓
Volume up / down
Enter
OK
BN
Next / previous band
MV
Next / previous mode
SA
Next / previous step
WQ
Next / previous bandwidth
GF
AGC up / down
LK
Backlight up / down
IU
Calibration up / down
OP
Sleep on / off
T
Toggle status log
C
Screenshot
H
Log reception
D
Cockpit view
⌘K
Search pages & stations